Saturday, July 2, 2005

Bo's Journal #2 Washington State

Okay, here we are in the gorgeous state of Washington. We took the 7:30PM ferry out of Victoria for Port Angeles on July 19th. We had to be there 90 minutes early so we could be checked through Canadian customs. It really only took about 2 minutes. I think it is because those poor custom folks don’t get to see very many handsome, big dogs like me and I always give them my very best alert, smiling, “wanna pet me?” look. I believe it really helps get us through these official things. On the American side about 90 minutes later, I let the gray-headed, official-looking, really buff border patrol guy see my best side. That got us through in about 5 questions and 2 minutes. I’m sooo good!


Off we headed out the highway to a campground at Elwah, where we had reservations, only to hear from Anita and Margaret (who had left BC earlier in the day) that there were no confirmed reservations in the campground records and they wanted us to all stay in the parking lot! Not this group, I can tell you. So, we canceled our reservations and A & M went off to find a better place - boy they did... lovely, on the beach at Crescent Bay, on the Straits of Juan de Fuca and directly across the waters from their home in East Sooke! I mean directly, like a crow, or maybe seagull, flies. This was the best yet. We didn’t see it until morning as it was really late by the time we got there and got set up, but Mikey and I had a really great run and I won the prize for finding the biggest stick. This is really a great group of women friends for Cokie and Kae and I think Mikey is a blast.


Next morning we had to say goodbye to everyone as they were all heading back to Shingle Springs and Placerville, CA and the drag of going back to work. We decided to head up the coastline of Washington, on Hwy.112, out to Cape Flattery; just so we could say we had been to the very end of Washington. Truth was that after we passed through some very small, very First Nations towns like Joyce, Pysht, (I think I figured out how to pronounce this one, but I understand it isn’t polite to print it!), Clallum Bay, Sekiu and Neah, we sorta got more and more uncomfortable with how narrow the roads were getting and how dark the forests were getting. So we didn’t get all the way out to the very end. I’m not too sure we really missed anything. We turned the Pod around and headed back east to Hwy 113, south. We did stop for some great ice cream and some bad art.



We were looking for a decent little campground, but they were few and far between, so we started looking for quiet little roads. We found a beauty about ? way between Clallum Bay and Sappho. We pulled off and it was so quiet in a beautiful forested area with a level road and soft sunlight through the trees. We set up camp (not very hard in this fully self-contained space capsule pod unit) and settled in for dinner. I got in a little walk and some great smells – a little coon, skunk, deer, no bear or cougar though; too close to the road, I guess. I sure slept well and the gals did too.


Next day we headed down Hwy. 101 into the Olympic National Forest and Hoh Rain Forest. I am beginning to think that I will write my National Pet Lobbyist in Washington DC about this rule of ‘no dogs off leash and no walking on the trails in National Parks’. I think it is pure torture to be locked up in this luxury, portable dog house with all the windows open so that I can see the beauty outside, but I can’t walk, smell, mark or enjoy any of it. There ought to be a change of law so this world can go to the dogs! The rain forests are remarkable for the shear size of the trees and the richness of growth. Small changes in altitude, sun exposure or amount of water can change the entire flora. Let a little sunlight in and it changes again. As the big trees die and topple over they are left in place to become ‘nursery trees’ for the saplings, ferns, fungus and fauna of the area. You can see bizarre root configurations of those trees that started on top of a huge, downed ‘nursery’ log and over the years the log rotted away and left the roots standing several feet up in the air; much like the trees of the southern bayous. Of course I only heard about this diversity from listening to the gals talk as they compared their hundreds of pictures.


We moved on down 101, again looking for a nice campground. We had scoped out an area around Lake Quinault only to discover that there were no vacancies. It was getting pretty late so the Ladies decided that there was one place we probably wouldn’t be disturbed by Rangers or First Nations folk - the local town cemetery! They checked that it wasn’t posted for ‘no camping’ and we pulled in behind a building and parked on a paved area out of sight. It was truly a beautiful spot; rolling grassy area, surrounded by deep forest and berry bushes, with sweet smelling flowers, next to old stone markers. Not more than 100 graves here, but sadly, many infant and toddler deaths; war veterans from several different conflicts and lots of long-lived loggers and back-hoe operators. I loved padding around and sniffing all of the natural trails left by the locals critters. Kae and Cokie seemed to like the place, but I sensed that they were a little nervous about something they called ‘trespassing’. After we settled in for the night, we heard a car drive in –BUSTED! They doused the lights and Kae got dressed and peeked out the window. No one got out or came over to us and she reported that some guy let his dogs out to wander and relieve themselves in the cemetery. How rude! Three dogs and 10 minutes later, they are gone and we are off to lala-land. Worked great, price was right and we were on our way to Olympia to visit Cokie’s relatives the next day.


Uncle Lloyd and Aunt Madge are a trip all by themselves. Lloyd will be 80 in August and Madge is about 7 years younger. Just to orient you - Lloyd is Cokie’s Aunt Barbara’s brother on Cokie’s maternal side; or Cokie’s Mother’s brother. Lloyd’s twin was Roy, who passed a few years ago,but Lloyd remains very spry, active and thin. Spent his life as an automotive ‘body and fender man’ and still has a huge shop and helps his son restore and rebuild cars for the grandkids. Lloyd grew up in the Murchie Mine, Willow Valley area above Nevada City and had many stories to tell about the 1930’s and 40’s. He was a dedicated hunter and fisherman and knew times in that area that we will never know, like when you could eat the fish and game you caught. They are gardeners and eat fresh vegetables and berries every night, plus their son raises beef. Let me tell you. I was grateful that we stayed there for three days; the leftovers were great! They are a sweet, old- style couple, married 53 years, who entertain in a homey, easy way and love to share their stories and family with anyone who stops by. I enjoyed their cocker, Goldie and am glad we took a few days to stay with them.

Then it was off to Mount St. Helens National Park to see the volcano. Now I am sure humans find all of this ‘activity’ really interesting. I mean, I am certain that magma domes, smoke columns, rock falls, 100’s of tremblers and all that blasted landscape are fascinating to the ‘need to know’ human mind, but I was really nervous! I mean I could feel the earthquakes and I could smell the sulfur in the air and I may not know about all the sophisticated instruments telling us when things are happening deep within the earth, but I can tell you us canine types can are very sensitive to old Mother Nature and I was stuck in one of those National Park places where dogs are not allowed to roam and figure things out. All I could do was look out the Pod windows at dead trees and arid earth, smell funny, acrid odors and try to make sense of it all. The Ladies say it all happened over 25 years ago, but, I tell you, this old girl is alive and well and she can pop her top any time. It made me very uneasy.


Then to top things off, the Ladies decided to go spend a few days ‘off road’ in the wilderness at the end of a logging road, near a wildlife preserve. We parked in this sweet, treed area, outside the preserve, next to a little stream. I could be off leash and I was in Lab heaven. We spent 3 nights and 2 days there and Kae celebrated her 63rd birthday, sans clothes or humans (excepting Cokie) and it was darn cool. I really didn’t like the big, biting horse flies or the tremblers or the coyotes; just ‘cause I was already sort of nervous, so I was glad when we pulled out and headed for Mt. Rainier National Park.


Now Rainier is a premier National Park and much quieter! Longmire is where we stayed, in Cougar Creek Campground and Paradise ( I heard that the place got it’s name back about 100 years ago when some fancy lady from back east said that the spot was so beautiful that it “must be what Paradise will look like”) is just up the road where the big interpretive center and old hotel are located. I saw that we had a nice family of 5 camped next to us so I just had to go over and introduce myself to the three kids. You know by now how much I love the ‘little ones”! What a fun family. Kae came over to help me get to know them better and we found out their names are Nichole, Patricio, and Juliette, plus their folks – Ana and Javiar. They are from Argentina, living in Venezuela and have traveled all over the world on their vacations the past few years. They particularly love the National Parks of America because “they are so safe”. The children attend an American school and speak fluent English. Kae speaks very little Spanish, but I speak everyone’s language, especially ‘kid’, so we all did okay. I had Kae promise I would include them in my journal and keep them on my e-mail list so they can follow along as we visit places and see new things. I love meeting and connecting with new folks. This traveling gig is really fun.

I had to spend more time in the POD than I like when the Ladies got out and hiked down to the bottom of Narada Falls in Longmire and then we drove over to Paradise and they went through the interpretive center.


They said that even though Mt. Rainier is quiet now, it has the potential to be even more devastating than Mt. St. Helens because it is so much larger and so many more people have settled in it s ‘sphere of influence”. It actually would be the worst of the 7 volcanoes in the Cascade Mountain Range that scientists have classified as active; it is not a matter of ‘if’, simply ‘when’. I know you couldn’t get me to live anywhere near these sleeping beauties. I can feel them in the earth and they make me d--- nervous!


What was the best though was the female deer that crossed right in front of us as we were driving out of the parking lot. I mean not 10 feet away. I knew I couldn’t bark or anything as Cokie was busy snapping pictures. Boy, it was hard not to let out a big doggie ‘hello’, let me tell you!


I know I am carrying on quite a bit, but we did a lot of fun and interesting things; so bear with me. Some of these chapters will be excruciatingly long and some will be sweet and short; just like my encounters with people. We left Mt. Rainer National Park and headed north along Hwy. 410 toward Tacoma. There is a fabulous Museum of Glass that the ladies want to visit. We took some of the back roads and spent the night in the Green River Gorge area at the Kanaskat-Palmer State Park Campground outside of Enumclaw, near the Muckleshoot Indian Reservation. Now, I’m not making these names up, folks. Try these – Puyallup, Stellacoom, Tukwila, Issaquah, Snoqualmie – see? Swear some of these names sound a little like the stuff I say when I’m settling down for the night! We made it on the freeways, underpasses, overpasses, construction zones and side streets into down town Tacoma. They had to leave me in the Pod in the bottom of a large parking garage under a building of expensive condos so they could go visit the Glass Museum. They were gone for a really long time, but it was cool, pretty quiet and good for snoozing. They sure talked a lot about this international center for contemporary art with its focus on glass. It is the cornerstone of Tacoma’s multi-million dollar redevelopment along the Thea Foss Waterway with grassy parkways and the famous 500 foot long Chihuly Bridge of Glass; honoring Dale Chihuly, local First Nations artist of world renown for his exquisite glass sculptures. The ceiling of the bridge looks like you are walking underwater and looking up at the sea life above you. Very cool!


Kae said she most enjoyed an exhibit called “Myth, Object and the Animal” by William Morris. Cokie found the studio where visiting artists actually create the objects from molten glass on an amphitheater stage the most interesting. We spent that night over in a city called Federal Way at a nice state park on the shores of Puget Sound. Next day we went back to Tacoma so the ladies could visit the Washington State History Museum. There they were captivated by an exhibit of Pulitzer Prize winning photographs, spanning over 60 years of photo journalism. This is a traveling exhibition from Newseum, the world’s first interactive museum of news. The exhibit featured more than 100 images drawn from each year’s winning entries from 1941 to the present. These are photos of ordinary people caught up in extraordinary events. They recommend this exhibit to everyone and suggest you visit www.newseun.org. to find out if it will be near you. Then up to the big city of Seattle, destination – the Space Needle. We parked across the street and I got to stay in the Pod again. (Really, I don’t mind what with AC and big windows to look out at the world of people and plenty of water and a Tempurpedic bed to snooze on. What’s not to like?) K & C said the Needle was okay – far too many people and not as high as they thought it would be. Great views.


They found the Science Fiction Museum much more to their liking. Everything from the early 20th century literature and silent films to Stargate SG-1, Star Trek and Alien paraphernalia was on display. It was interactive, interesting and informative. Fantastic building design and everything smelled so different when I got to go for a stroll with the gals.



Next day we headed out of Seattle in the middle of a traffic jam on I-5. We got off that mess as fast as we could and headed east for the back roads and peacefulness again. Boy is that okay by me! We took about two days traveling south back around the east side of both Mt. Rainier and Mt. St. Helens. It was very interesting to see the other side of both those mountains and to travel in forested, less popular areas where I could run and swim and smell all the good things in life again. Well that about covers all of things we three did in Washington and I know this is an incredibly long chapter, but hey! we three, really did a lot and were moving and sniffing through a lot of territory, people and places. Hope you enjoy this chapter and we’ll send along some more news as we move into Idaho and Montana. Remember to ‘paws’ to smell the rosebushes every once in a while, folks.

Friday, July 1, 2005

Bo's Journal #1-Vancouver Island




“Want to go for a ride”? She said. “I thought, ‘Geez, Lady, I’m a Lab! What do you think?’” Well, that was back in May and we didn’t get on the road until July1st, but what a ride it has been so far! We pushed for two days to get to Anacortes, Washington to be certain we got on the ferry to Sydney, Vancouver Island, BC on July 4th. We did it and I tell you ferrys are a blast. Really nice people from all over the world who think big yellow dogs are really swell, which suits me just fine because the rubs, scratches and hugs are great. Small children are easy for an up close and personal “hello” and seem to enjoy a wet salutation for the most part. The bigger parent types are a little funny about kids and dogs ex-changing saliva, but how else is a guy to know who they are? You can’t always greet two-leggeds in a proper canine fashion – they really get funny about that! We spent one of the nights when we were going up boring Highway 5 at Shasta. We found a great spot at an abandoned sawmill with great trees and bushes and a grand view of the mountain. No cost, no hookups, no problems until the trains came by – big surprise. The next night was in Ridgefield, WA. Again we found a spot to make a Lab’s heart sing; a wildlife reserve with a gentle river, birds, marshes, wide open spaces, you name it. Great, except NO DOGS ALLOWED and they close at 9 pm with no overnighters. Oh well, we found a sweet spot in a new subdivision development, with level pavement, tall, fun grasses and again really quiet until the train came through! So what is this train stuff? Back to the ferry-


I must say I am really starting to find this water thing sort of exciting. The Pod drives onto a big platform and then everything gets quiet and doesn’t move at all. We can get out and walk all over and sniff tires and ‘hello’ kids and the air is really interesting to smell and then, WOW, everything starts to move – not the Pod - everything. The whole boat moves. First time, I sort of got shaky and not sure where things were, but then I got it and I figured we were on water,( too bad not in it), but on it and moving too. Cool. The wind came up and things really smelled interesting. So we got lots of wind, people, kids, good smells and movement then back in the Pod, off load at Sydney, traveling toward Victoria and the south island.


We went over to Sooke, actually East Sooke, which is west of Victoria, to visit a great group of dogs and women who all own a home together right on the water. (Oh yeah! Water feels great, but tastes really bad!) We rested up that evening and went to Victoria the next day to see the Tibetan exhibit at the Royal British Columbia Museum. I didn’t go, just stayed in the Pod and relaxed. There are a couple of really short canine friends here – Mikey, a Corgie and Ollie, a Lab/Corgie mix. Now I really don’t mind short friends, but they do bark a lot about everything around them and sometimes it’s hard not to join in. I think a guy should save up what he wants to vocalize about for really important things like other dogs with attitudes, or bears, or strange sounds or the joy of running or……. You get my drift. Next day we headed up Hwy 19A along the east side of Vancouver Island, toward Campbell River and into Shelter Bay, to stay at the RV Park. My gals fixed a really great chicken dinner for friends Margaret and Anita. They said that was the first company they had cooked for in the Pod. All I know is the leftovers were great.


Next day we stopped at Willow Point to view the results of the annual Cedar Log Carving Contest on the beach. There were three categories, Novice, Amateur, and professional. Guess the carvers have a set amount of time to carve what ever the log suggests. (Sorry I don’t know how much time they were given.) The results are really wonderful, as you can see. Seems lots of talented people live in this area. On to Chemainus, an old, dying logging town until someone got the idea to invite local painters to come and paint murals all over the decaying and abandoned buildings, back in the 1980’s. They had to follow the town’s history in their work, but their individual styles were encouraged. There are about 36 murals and 12 sculptures throughout the village, depicting various aspects of a lumber mill town and its Chinese labor force throughout the 19th and 20th centuries. These murals are now world famous and the town has a new tourist industry to keep it alive. The ice cream the ladies shared with me was pretty memorable, too. We pulled into the RV Park at Cluxsewe on the North Island coast, in an area known as Port McNeill. Wow, what a beautiful place. We could run or walk about 200 feet and we were right in the water. The gals did lots of things around here for the next 4 days. They went down to Telegraph Cove; a tiny village of 6 permanent residents which began in 1912 as a single-man telegraph office. Now the Stubb’s Island Whale Watching Tours are a big business and a fantastic adventure. The ladies were out about 6 hours and saw a family pod of orcas, headed up by a 64 year old Grandmother orca and all of her generations of off-spring.



They come into Johnstone Strait to a particular spot to ‘rub’ on the smooth stones near the beach. These are presumably the only orcas to have this behavior anywhere in the world. Marine biologists really don’t know why they do this but surmise ‘it just feels good’. Personally, I can’t think of anything that feels better than a good RUB! The group also saw a humpback whale, eagles and a few dolphins. The perfect trip was even better when a huge double rainbow came out just at the end of the day. Of course that was the perfect ‘Kodak” moment!


Everyone, including yours truly, went over to the First Nations’ village on Alert Bay on 7/10 to see the world’s tallest totem pole at 175 feet, plus the U’mista Cultural Center.

This center, opened in 1980, houses one of the finest collections of carved Potlatch masks of the Kwakwaka’wakw culture. (No, I can’t pronounce it, even if I could talk!) Seems these native folk were told by the white man that they could not sing or dance or give gifts, back in 1922, because it was considered too ‘heathen’. So they had all of their masks and costumes taken away and were forbidden to be joyful. Of course, they just went ‘underground’ and continued when it was stormy weather and no one could get to the island to check on them. The revered items were sent to private collections and museums and not repatriated until 1980 when the Museum of Man returned them to the island to be housed in the new tribal-built U’mista Center. I wasn’t allowed inside, but the carvings, huge cedar log columns and paintings on the outside were beautiful and the gals said the hall of masks and the documentary films made you cry in sympathy and with some guilt about this whole affair. It is brave and wonderful that these First Nation People did not give up their traditions and beliefs and are now revitalizing their community through the efforts and promotion of their culture. We walked a lot in the village, saw the cemetery with it’s great collection of totem poles, had a good sandwich in the memorial park in the center of town, met a couple huskies and a lab-cross, but with a couple of attitudes too. I told them I was just visiting, but they acted like I wanted to takeover the town or something. We ‘talked’ about it a bit and they went into the local bar and I went on to the cultural center. Some dogs are so provincial and narrow-minded! Then we all drove south to Campbell River the next day and took another fun, but short, ferry trip over to Quadra Island to the We Wai Kai Campground out on beautiful Rebecca Spit, just east of Heriot Bay on the east side of the island. This spot is also run by First Nations People and was some of the best swimming I have had to date. Mikey and I got to chase sticks and splash around for a really long time. It was heavenly!

The ladies did a bunch of stuff the three days we were there. Kae, Renee and Carolyn went fishing with a friend of Renee’s, Jim Hall. He took them out for about 9 hours and they motored all through the many islands and straits, looking at the majestic scenery of mountains, clouds, trees and granite. They also managed to limit on cod, prawns and oysters. I liked that part because they came back and cooked a great fresh seafood dinner for all of us. I really loved all the fresh stuff and the tons of butter too! They managed to catch some fish to feed a couple of eagles in one of the coves. Quite an adventure and they got some great pictures of the eagles swooping in for the fish that were tossed into the water. I would have had a really hard time not leaping for those big birds myself. Good thing I didn’t get to go! The rest of the ladies went out on a wildlife boat tour to see if they could spot bears and eagle, etc. The tour was about 4 hours but they didn’t see much as the pilot had one speed - fast - and also had fuel line problems. Guess he was more interested in getting back to Heriot Bay than looking for wildlife or maybe that’s where the ‘wildlife’ really was! The gang then went over to a world famous art studio on Quadra, the Drachukla Studio. Ed and Ethel Drachukla have lived and worked here for 45 years and their labor of love shows. The grounds are landscaped , manicured and filled with flowers, trees and sculptures at every turn. There are 40 acres total with 14.7 acres right on the water and some of the best views around. The studio is an adventure too; from the koi pond to the gallery to the deck and all the oils, watercolors, sculptures and prints. The place is for sale for about $1.7 million American and would make a wonderful destination retreat or resort. Coke, Kae and I split off from the rest of the crew yesterday and decided to travel over to the Pacific Ocean side of Vancouver Island for a few days. We took Hwy. 4 west and stopped at this really beautiful forest of huge Douglas fir trees called Cathedral Grove.

Some of these beauties are 800 years old. The grove is littered with many fallen giants because a terrific windstorm came through on Jan.1, 1997 and blew them down. They are left where they fell to provide nutrients for the new growth and to let sunshine into this heavy rainforest. This was a terrific walk and the smells were unbelievable! I never smelled so much old stuff and moss and mold in one spot in my whole life. It was great. We decided to stop in a funky little RV park outside of Port Alberni just to get this journal updated, (it’s hard to get Kae to understand what I want to say sometimes, but she listens pretty well and fills in the spaces when I have to sleep in the Pod.) This park has a Japanese Restaurant in it, but Kae is going to cook up the last of the fresh cod tonight. That suits me as I don’t really like wasabi very much. Today we are off to Tofino and the Pacific Rim Park. We have to cut across the central island on Hwy.4 west. Boy, what a beautiful drive through mountain and river country. This island must be solid granite to judge by the amount they had to drill and blast through just to put this road in. The creeks are like every 100 meters, I swear! We stopped a few times at great creek places for picnics and walks much to my delight. Port Alberni is a different place with some fun things to see, but we were tired and the weather sucked for a day so we holed up in a funky RV park attached to a motel and Japanese sushi restaurant, next to a cemetery. Great jogging place for me, but I wondered if Cokie and Kae might have found it sorta strange. We laid back for a rainy day then headed west to Ucluelet and Torfino. Ukee, ( as the locals say it – thank Goodness!), is no big whoops. We sorta drove through and headed for Tofino. Now if you like tourists, love higher prices and think cute coves and wildlife tours are fun, Tofino is for you. Personally, I found some interesting smells, thought the local skate board park was cool, enjoyed sharing an ice cream cone, loved the tall ship sailing out in the harbor and the local wharf with First Nation folks was a lot more interesting.


We decided to head back east toward Sooke and our friends, with maybe a stay over some place. We actually ended up in a Provincial Park, along Sproat Lake, called Taylor Arm and found a sweet, quiet, free space to dry camp. The most fun of the whole day was seeing 6 black bear on our way to and from Tofino, right beside and across the highway! Kae saw a bear butt first on her side of the road, then within a few hundred meters we saw a mama bear and her twin cubs dash across. I could smell and see them and boy, were they interesting!! Never smelled anything like that before. Then, guess because I was so alert, we saw two more, eating berries right beside the road. What a treat. Cokie couldn’t get the camera out fast enough to get any pictures, so you will have to take my word for it. I think I heard a couple during the night as we were dry camping at Taylor Arm, but I couldn’t swear to it.
We headed south toward Victoria the next day stopping at a couple of cool spots along the way. One beautiful, but frustrating place, was Quilicum Falls Provincial Park. Got out and hiked to the lower falls area. Frustrating, since I couldn’t get down into that clear, beautiful water. Oh well! We made pretty good time and got to Sooke about 5PM to find Margaret and Bonnie ready to take us all over to Wally and Marta’s house for dinner. What great folks! When they found out that I was left back in East Sooke in the Pod, they insisted that I should be rescued and brought to their place to run free and swim in the bay and everything! Well they were so right. What a blast! I even learned to dive off the dock. Wow! I was really exhausted when we got home and slept like a puppy.


Next day we went to the Butchart Gardens in the mid-morning. What a treat for folks and dogs alike! There are so many beautiful scenes with sweet smelling little kids and flowers, too. I was trying to take all of it in through every sense I had. Four hours later, I was exhausted and barely able to stay awake in the car. But this was a rich and wonderful day.


Kae, Carolyn and Bonnie are crazy! They got up at 5AM to go out to catch salmon. I wonder why salmon are such early risers. Cokie, Margaret and Anita went into Sooke for breakfast and then we went for a walk. We went out to a place called Rebecca Spit, but it was too steep and rocky to get down to the water. We are planning to leave tomorrow afternoon and take another ferry trip over to Port Angeles, WA. I love this changing territory, new place and adventure every day sort of life. I think we are all loving this retirement gig.